The Fresh Loaf

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alfanso's picture
alfanso

My past.  I did post this before, way back in 2016, in the wake of all the chatter on TFL about pane di Altamura.  And just in the past few days Benny and Caroline have been posting semolinas, just about my favorite subject when it comes to bread.  Benny's was his take on the Altamura bread, which, although the original Altamura bread has an odd beauty all of its own, on its best days looks like something Victor Frankenstein might have left aside in a large glass jar.

So my psyche was psyched and I felt somewhat compelled to revisit my corrupted take of David Snyder's take.  Hence the pane di Alfansomura is making a return appearance.  As I now use the Canadian Atta version of semola rimacinata, which does contain some small amount of bran, it isn't as pure as the real thing, but bakes up lovely just the same.

The stats:

  • 89% of the flour is durum,
  • 11% of the flour is dark rye introduced into the mix as a
  • 125% hydration rye levain,
  • overall hydration is 1 or 2 clicks north of 70%.  
  • total dough weight ran close to 1300g.  
  • being ~430g each, these clearly exist in the "long batard" world, and
  • baked with steam (13 min.) at 450dF.
  • ~26-28 minutes overall.

 

I was a tad disappointed that the crumb wasn't a little more open, which makes for a chewier bite, but tasty just the same and otherwise makes for a contented bake.

I think I'll be making them again before the month is out.

trailrunner's picture
trailrunner

Still same formula and times. I did one extra set of folds to develop the gluten even further because of Semola. I also proofed them a full hour before baking. I also took Kendalm’s advice on shaping and am well- pleased with the improvements on that “ score” which is also better. Better color which has always been good but really love this bake. Better grigne throughout scoring. 

Thank you to those of you who have offered wonderful suggestions and support. It’s really paid off. Crumb to follow these are for family dinner tonight. Couldn’t be happier with crumb! The extra fold and 15 min of final rise paid off handsomely. Only a wee bit of the two loaves left. 



 

 

 

 

idaveindy's picture
idaveindy

Aug. 6, 2022. 97th bake. 

Oh my. This is the bread I've been looking for. 

I couldn't wait and ate a slice before taking photos. 

This is the 5th loaf in this series, (4 pan loaves, 1 boule) and I finally have it dialed in. 

  • 200 grams home-milled hard red winter wheat, whole grain.  (Stored for 14 years. Purchased and vacuum packed in 2008.) 
  • 50 grams home-milled hard white spring wheat, whole grain. Circa 2018. 
  • 6.5 g salt. 
  • 210 g water. 
  • soak for about 1 hour. 10:23am to 11:30 am.  (It was in fridge from 10:55 to 11:30.) 
  •  
  • 70 grams home-milled whole rye. Purchased 2021.  20% of 350 g total flour. 
  • this rye is kind of soft, so I felt it didn't need to go into the soaker. 
  • 7 g bread spice, weighed.  This was about 4 tsp, which is more than I usually used, but I wanted to try 2% of flour after reading that figure somewhere. 
  • 14 g mix of ground flaxseed/chia. 4% of total flour.
  • 15 g bread flour. 
  • 1/8 tsp Fleischmann instant dry yeast. Assuming 7 g yeast per 2.25 tsp.
    7 / 2.25 / 8 = .389 g.    .389 / 350 = .11 % IDY.
  •  --- the above dry ingredients (rye through yeast) were mixed together. 
  • 25 g 100% hydration starter.  12.5 / 350 = 3.5 % PFF
  • 50 g water. 
  •  --- starter was disolved in the water, then mixed with above dry ingredients at about 11:25 am. 
  • another 10 grams of water was added to the leavened part. 
  •  
  • water: 210 + 12.5 + 50 + 10 / 350 = 282.5 / 350 = 80.7 % hyd.  Maybe should account for bread spice and ground flax/chia as they absorb water too.
  •  
  • --- the soaker and the leavened part were mixed via kneading from 11:30 am to 11:40 am. 
  •  --- kneaded a bit at 12:40 pm. 
  •  --- kneaded a bit at  1:30 pm. 
  •  --- kneaded a bit at  2:20 pm. 
  •  --- at 2:30, dough was shaped and placed in oiled and dusted pan as below. (3 hour bulk ferment @ 78-80 F.)
  •  --- at 3:34, top of dough was wetted, then coated with seed mix. 
  •  --- at 3:38, pan was covered in aluminum foil and placed in toaster oven, pre-heated to 450 F, thermostat was then lowered to 400 F.  (68 min final proof @ 78-80 F.)
  •  --- at 3:57, aluminum foil cover was removed. (19 min)
  •  --- at 4:15, internal loaf temp was 188 F. Returned to oven. 
  •  --- at 4:25, internal temp was 208.7 F. Called it done. Plopped it out on paper plate and chopsticks. 47 min total bake time.
  •  --- at 5:50 pm, couldn't resist, and cut off and ate a piece. Mmmm.
  •  
  • Topping: brown sesame, black sesame, chia seeds, poppy seeds. 
  • Proofed and baked in Lodge cast iron loaf pan 4LP.  Inside coated with coconut oil and dusted with durum semolina (the gritty stuff). 

No added sugar!  No oil, except what was in ground flaxseed/chia, the topping seeds, and the oil to coat the pan.

I'll fill in more of the details from my notes later on.  

I seem to have fixed the problem of pale and weak top crust (in this toaster oven) by:

  • Fermenting less. 
  • Putting aluminum foil over the pan for the first part of the bake. 
  • Using top-heat for the covered part of the bake, and for most, but not all of the uncovered part. 
  • This made the top crust darker and firmer than the previous attempts.

This loaf is moist and tasty.  The bread spice and flax/chia in the dough make it good enough that I don't need to dip in flavored/seasoned oil at all.

There's no head-room to spare in this toaster oven, so I can't increase the height of the loaf. 350 g is the max amount of this type/mix of flour for this pan.

 


 


 


 


 


 

 

Benito's picture
Benito

I’ve had this bake on my list for sometime.  I saved the recipe when I read through his book months ago along with a couple other of his recipes.  I have to say that we quite enjoyed the texture and flavour of this bread.  Very rustic with a new chewiness and that nutty sweet flavour that durum semolina has.  I used semola rimacinata flour as is typical for this bread from what I’ve read.

A couple of notes, I didn’t quite get the shaping right.  I believe a tad too much flour on the fold along with the fold not quite going far enough lead to the top part of the dough sliding down during the bake as the oven spring happened.  Also, the recipe says to bake for 30-35 mins.  Despite baking for 45 mins I found at the very center of the loaf that there was a tiny bit of crumb that wasn’t fully baked.  I’d probably bake a bit longer by 5-10 mins next time to ensure a deeper colour to the crust and a fully baked crumb.

START TO FINISH: 10 to 12 hours

LIEVITO MADRE 6 to 8 hours

KNEAD 15 minutes

FIRST FERMENTATION 2½ hours

REST 30 to 40 minutes

BAKE 30 to 35 minutes

MAKES one 1,084-gram loaf

INGREDIENTS

BAKER’S %

METRIC WEIGHT

LIEVITO MADRE

 

 

Fine semolina flour (semolina rimacinata)

100

106 g

Water

69

73 g

Liquid Sourdough Starter

20

21 g

FINAL DOUGH

 

 

Extra-fancy durum flour (semolina rimacinata)

100

500 g

Water

70

350 g

Salt

2.6

13 g

Lievito madre

40

200 g

Dry instant yeast (optional)

0.2

1 g

FINISHING

 

 

Extra-fancy durum flour (semolina rimacinata)

 

20 g

 

  1. PREPARE THE LIEVITO MADRE: In a small bowl, stir together the flour, water, and sourdough starter until well incorporated. Cover and let ferment at room temperature (68 to 77 degrees) until doubled in volume, 6 to 8 hours.
  2. MAKE THE FINAL DOUGH: Combine the semolina flour, water, salt, lievito madre, and yeast if using in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix with a spatula just until a rough dough forms. With the dough hook, mix on medium-low (4 on a KitchenAid mixer) until the dough is velvety, soft, shiny, and elastic, about 15 minutes.
  3. FIRST FERMENTATION: Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled, clear 4-quart container with a lid. Turn the dough over so all sides are oiled. Cover and let stand 45 minutes. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter. Pat into a 6- by 8-inch rectangle and fold like a business letter. Slide both hands under the dough and flip it over so the folds are underneath. Slip it back into the container, cover, and let stand another 45 minutes. Repeat the folding and turning, return to the container, and let stand until the dough is very pillowy, 1 hour longer. (If making Altamura Focaccia or Panzanella, skip to directions in the following variations at this point.)
  4. REST: On a lightly floured countertop, pre-shape into a round. Dust with flour and cover with a towel or plastic wrap. Let rest 30 to 40 minutes.
  5. BAKE: Right after pre-shaping, place a baking stone on the middle rack of the oven and a cast-iron skillet on the lower rack. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Dust a parchment-covered peel or baking sheet with about 15 g of the semolina flour and place the dough on the parchment, seam side up. Flatten into an 11- to 12-inch round and fold almost in half. Push down on the edge with the heel of your hand to seal the edge. Turn the folded dough in the semolina to coat on all sides, sprinkling with the remaining 5 g as needed. Slide the loaf, still on the parchment, onto the baking stone. Place 1 cup of ice cubes in the skillet to produce steam. Bake until the loaf is reddish brown and well risen, 30 to 35 minutes. Slide the loaf, still on the parchment, onto a wire rack. Cool completely. Store in a brown paper bag at room temperature for 5 to 6 days.
trailrunner's picture
trailrunner

Everything the exact same just added more Semola Rimacinata . Incredible crackling out of the oven. Gorgeous grine. Crumb shot in a bit. 


M

 Not quite as open with the increased Semola but given the incredible flavor and crust I’ll take it. 


 

 

 

idaveindy's picture
idaveindy

Aug. 3, 2022. 96th bake. Ugly crust -- beautiful and tasty crumb.

The top crust is too flimsy, but, man-o-man, this is tasty. The discard with IDY worked a wonder.
 


 


 


 


 

Sugarowl's picture
Sugarowl

Not much to say, except I'm re hydrating my 2g of dried starter from 3(?) years ago. I've been feeling better and store bought bread prices have been going up. Almost $4 a loaf here for the basic stuff. I've got bubbles in my tiny starter which is half rye and half whole wheat. If anyone remembers, I was having water problems when trying to get it going the first time. So far I have only been using filtered water and no bottled, so my fingers are crossed this stays alive (it's hurricane season and people panic buy the bottled stuff).

On another note, I found a glass bottle of regular yeast starter in my refrigerator door, from 2018. I made rolls with it, no problems at all! I made the Cafeteria Lady rolls, but they came out more like biscuits. And so on I go to look for something more like that of Hawaiian rolls we had in our schools down here. I'm guessing the tangzong method.

I haven't been able to do much baking but school for the kiddos start next week, so I'll have lots of time to bake (and rest) and have a nice smelling kitchen. It's been a very busy year.

:)

 

8/9 Edit: a few days later and I've got black mold on the rim. I am bummed. I was trying to get enough going to do a bake this week of one of Trevor's loaves or some sourdough cinnamon rolls. I guess I'll stick to regular yeast for now and when I do restart it will be the bottled water and pineapple juice method again. Dang, dang, and dang. Well, I guess I'll try making the BBA's cinnamon rolls this week with a bit of rye added. I have a 3lb bag that expires at the end of the month (never buy flour from or fulfilled by Amazon).

Edit: 10/6/2022: I found a jar of more of my dried starter in the back of a cabinet. Hooray!

Benito's picture
Benito

I hadn’t made a pizza in half year so it was high time that we had pizza.  I decided to try baking another Capricciosa pizza (capocollo, mushrooms, olives artichokes and tomato sauce) and ensured that the mushrooms were pre-cooked so that they didn’t flood the pizza with their liquid during baking.  To that end I dry sautéed the mushrooms after slicing them in sixths until they were nicely browned.  The artichokes I allowed to drain in a sieve so that they didn’t too much liquid to the pizza.  Finally, for the pizza sauce, I used a can of San Marzano tomatoes removing the tomatoes.  I squeezed them open to remove the tomato water and then drained them in a sieve.  After they dried for some time, I added some homemade red wine vinegar, garlic powder, salt, pepper, oregano and basil and squeezed it all to mix and breakdown the tomatoes.

(1) In your mixer bowl(or by hand) dissolve the levain and diastatic malt in all of the Final Dough Water except the HOLD OUT Water. 

(2) Mix in the flours until well hydrated 

(3) Allow to fermentolyse for 1hr 

(4) Mix in the remaining HOLD OUT Water, salt, and sugar mix until well-incorporated. 

(5) Slowly drizzle in the oil until well combined. 

(6) Beat or knead by hand until dough is moderately developed. The dough will be sticky and elastic. If kneading by hand, use slightly wet hands and avoid adding more flour. 

(6a) Allow to ferment for 1 hour before proceeding to (7)

(7) Oil your hands and a suitable container. 

(8) Shape into a tight ball.  I divide the ball into four smaller ones each for one 9” pizza at this point.  Each goes into a small oiled bowl and allowed to proof for 1 hour before starting cold fermentation.

(9) Cold ferment in the refrigerator for 48-96hrs. 

(10) Remove to warm up to room temp for at 3-6hr or so before use at room temperature, or you can ferment 2-3 hours at 80ºF.  One hour before the dough is ready, pre-heat your oven on roast setting at 550°F or as high as it will go.

(11) Stretch the balls into your desired size.  Top your pizzas, brush the cornicione with water then roast at 550F (as high as your oven will go) until the crust is browned and the cheese has melted. Spin the pie at least once to avoid burning due to oven hot spots. 

(12) I bake in a preheat cast iron skillet that heats in the oven while it is pre-heating.  I set the oven to roast and bake the pizzas in the cast iron skillet on my baking steel so that the skillet is quite close to the top of the oven.  It only takes 6 mins to fully bake my pizzas.

 

Heat oven to 550ºF roasting setting, with skillet in oven on baking steel on the second highest rack about 1 hour.  My set up with the baking steel on the roasting rack that set up is on the third highest rack because of the added height from the roasting rack so it essentially makes the skillet on the second highest rack.

Place stretched dough into skillet and top with sauce and toppings.

 

Brushing water on the cornicione prior to baking in oven, gives better oven spring and leopard spots to the cornicione. 

 My index of bakes.

JonJ's picture
JonJ

Benny's 100% wholewheat Hokkaido recipe is the recipe that just keeps on giving, and I keep on seeing miraculous loaves coming from the oven even as the recipe is tweaked and stretched which really surprises someone like me who is used to the experience of failed experiments when things are pushed too far.

One thing about this recipe that you need to be warned about is to not try and bake it late at night because the smell of the loaves as they are baking is so intense that if you're like me you'll want to then stay awake for long enough to let it cool enough to try a slice.

Previously I'd made a dairy free version of the recipe but wanted to stretch it further to see if I could make it without eggs while still making a nice bread. Also, the previous bread used a 'plant butter' that was really just a margarine with good marketing and I wanted to try something better.

In this bread, 14g ground linseeds plus an additional 42g of almond milk were used to replace the 56g of egg that was originally in the recipe. And, this time around I had quite a nice 'vegan butter' which was much less like a factory margarine (see pic, the ingredients were listed as olive oil, coconut oil, soy milk, apple cider vinegar, salt and lecithin).

But the most special ingredient was this bag of Manitoba wholemeal flour that was milled in Israel and baked in South Africa:


A truly international bread.

The one downside to leaving out eggs is that I couldn't get the topping to stick properly. I tried painting the top with melted vegan butter and then sticking the seeds on, which sort of worked, but eggs or something like whey would have given much better stickiness.

I'm not a vegan myself, so tried out slices with the vegan spread and with butter. I must tell you, you can't really beat butter can you, but at least I had something to offer my vegan friend!

The bread itself turned out lovely. I certainly preferred it flavour and texture wise to my previous dairy-free one, but I'm not sure if this was because the vegan butter I used was superior to marge. To be fair, I've only ever made these wholewheat Hokkaido breads with a certain local type of flour, so a large part of what makes this one special is the flour used which seemed to also be finely milled never mind the high protein and great flavour, and I need to try make a bread with this flour that includes all of the dairy and eggs while I still have some left!

Ilya Flyamer's picture
Ilya Flyamer

Really pleased to have finally produced a beautiful loaf worth sharing :) Recently I didn't have much time for baking, so most of the time just put stuff together randomly with no specific idea in mind. It was kind of the same this time, but worked out well.

I had the idea to use pasta water in a bread. Seems like an easy way to incorporate a little gelatinized starch, and if it's still hot after cooking, would help raise the starting temperature. The issue is pasta water is very salty, so I decided to substitute only 1/3 of the water with pasta water, and reduce the salt a little bit.

Here is the formula: https://fgbc.dk/2k87 Very simple dough with around 100g rye starter (refreshed overnight and then left in the fridge all day), a little rye flour to finish the leftovers in the bag, and 400 g high extraction flour. 200 g water, 100 g pasta water, 2.5 g diastatic malt, 8 g salt.

Pasta water was still rather hot, so the dough was warm after mixing. I simply combined everything and left for a while for the gluten to form. Did a couple sets of folds and the dough felt strong. It was surprisingly active, although recently due to infrequent baking my starter is not the strongest. It seemed about ready in around 3.5 hrs, I gave it a gentle coil fold as a preshape, and then shaped after 30 min. Cold proofed overnight, then baked on a steel with steam.



Very soft crumb, typical taste for the flour I am using, nicely caramelized crust. I like the nice and even browning, I suspect it's the combination of gelatinized starch and malt that really helps bring nice colour (since gelatinized starch is hydrolized very easily - I think this contributed to the fast fermentation too).

Looking at the crumb, maybe I should have given it just a little bit more time in bulk, maybe 30 min would do the trick. Still, very pleased with the result!

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