The Fresh Loaf

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Debra Wink's picture
Debra Wink

Hamelman's French Bread

We were planning to cook dinner out on the grill this evening, but it was wet and dreary here today, so we changed plans and pulled some French onion soup out of the freezer instead. I opened Hamelman's book this morning to make the Baguettes with Poolish, only to be reminded that the poolish needs overnight fermentation, so I switched gears and mixed the straight French Bread dough instead. The loaves turned out feather-light and much tastier than anything I could have bought at the store. Given enough time, I would have chosen a bread with a pre-ferment, but under the circumstances these fit the bill perfectly. Since the formula is easy to access in Bread, a Baker's Book of Techniques and Recipes (page 233), I'll give my favorite recipe for French Onion Soup instead. This freezes very well. Enjoy!

Famous Barr's French Onion Soup

3 pounds onions (5-pound bag, peeled)
4 ounces butter
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons paprika
1 bay leaf
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 quarts beef bouillon
1 cup dry white wine (optional)

Slice onions thinly. Melt butter in large soup pot, and saute onions slowly for 1 1/2 hours. Add all the dry ingredients, and saute over low heat 10 minutes more. Add the bouillon and wine, and simmer for 2 hours. Adjust color to a rich brown, if desired, with caramel coloring or Kitchen Bouquet. Season with salt to taste. Refrigerate overnight.

To serve: Heat soup. Fill fireproof casserole or individual fireproof bowls. Top with French bread and swiss cheese. Place under broiler until browned.

 

baltochef's picture
baltochef

40 Hour Apple-Strawberry Jam

This past Friday I purchased a 4 lb. bag of Granny Smith apples with the intentions of eating some plain, and incorporating some into my fruit smoothies..Well, I had too much other fruit on hand, and the apples sat until this morning untouched..As they were starting to show soft spots where they had ben bruised during picking and transportation, I decided to use the entire 4 lbs. in a batch of 20 Hour Apples..

http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/11218/20hour-apples-are-absolutely-fantastic

Being in somewhat of a hurry, I decided to incorporate some of the suggested short cuts that were mentioned by various posters in the above thread that I started back on March 21st..One poster mentioned using a slow cooker (crock pot), and other posters mentioned that Chef Herme's methodology for the ultra thin slicing and layering seemed to be unnecessary, as well as too fussy..

After peeling, coring (was not very meticulous about getting all of the core), and quartering the apples I was left with 2 lb. 4 oz. of yield..I elected to slice each quarter lengthwise into three to four 1/4" thick slices..I had juiced up all of the citrus fruits that I had on hand Friday night so I elected to spice things up a little with additional spices other than cinnamon..

20 Hour Apples--Redux

4 lb. Granny Smith apples--peeled, cored, quartered, sliced lengthwise into 1/4" slices

1lb. 8 oz. whole strawberries, stems pinched off as closely as possible (frozen for smoothies)

8 oz. organic granulated cane juice

1 1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/8 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

1 whole vanilla bean, split lengthwise in half, scraped out, mixed into the sugar

Instead of using a baking dish wrapped in plastic wrap weighted with a pan on top of the plastic wrap, I elected to use a Farberware Millenium hard anodized alluminum 4 quart stock pot to cook the apples in..First, I placed the scraped out sections of the vanilla bean in the bottom of the pot..Then, I layered the apple slices so as to cover as completely as possible the bottom surface of the pot..Then, I sprinkled a generous amount of the sugar-cinnamon-cardamom-cloves-cayenne pepper-vanilla bean mixture onto the apples..I repeated the apples and sugar mixture two more times..These three layers used up about 50% of the sliced apples, and the stock pot was not quite 1/2 full..Then, I remembered that I had approximately 1.5 pounds of whole strawberries in the freezer to use in smoothies..I pinch off the stems as close to the strawberry as possible when prepping them for freezing (the tiny amount of stem left on the strawberry disappears in the smoothie)..For some reason I wanted the pot to be as full as possible before I started baking the apples..Accordingly, I used the entire 1.5 pounds of frozen whole berries to create a layer of strawberries on top of the first half of the apples..I sprinkled the berries with the sugar mixture, and finished layering the remaining apples in three additional layers..The one cup (8 oz.)  of sugar was the perfect amount for the 6 layers of apples, and the single layer of berries..None left over..

The pot, with its relatively tight fitting lid, went into the 175F oven at 12 noon..My intentions are to let the apples and strawberries cook until 6 AM Monday morning..What I am shooting for is an apple-strawberry jam with the apples being cooked completely down..I will post back to let everyone know how this experiment turns out..

Bruce

 

 

SulaBlue's picture
SulaBlue

Voortman's Windmill Cookies?

Anyone have a recipe for something close to what these taste like, with that same crisp texture? I'm thinking THESE might be close, but the ingredients list for Voortman's Windmills don't mention almond.

http://savory-cooking.blogspot.com/2007/12/netherlands.html

Not sure what I'd use for a mold - I've found some, but they're $30 and seems to me you have to do 1 cookie at a time? I'm not quite -that- patient!

blackbird's picture
blackbird

Walnut cinnamon lemon mini loaf

An old favorite for over 30 years, walnut cinnamon lemon bread is simple, crunchy and chewy.  The basic recipe is flexible rather than perfectionist.  I used frozen orange juice, thawed and room tmperature, back in those days. 

3 cups AP flour

instant yeast perhaps a big pinch

pinch of salt

1 maybe 2 ounces oil

8-9 ounces water

cinnamon as you like, I like it so I may use more than you

walnut pieces as you like, say 3/4 cup

lemon by lemon extract or lemon juice and or zest to your taste ----or you can use orange instead

No sugar or sweetening needed.

Mix all well, you can do some kneading at this mixing time.  I knead in the bowl with my mixing plastic spoon giving 5 minutes or so between a few spoon kneading efforts.

Let rise to double or so, then divide to fit pans, up to three mini pans, kneading is minimal or not at all.   The dough will be a bit wet and clay-like.  I use wet hands to handle it.   Or one big bread loaf pan. 

 Let rise, then into preheated oven at 425F, no steam, cover with alum foil loosely, decrease heat after 20 min to 375F, remove foil.  Baking time depends on your oven and how many times you open the oven.  Say 30 minutes total.  Let cool, or eat warm if it suits you.  Previously I wrote 45 minutes but my mind was thinking of a big bread pan loaf which requires a bit more time.  It is good to check on it so it does not get too dry. 

The simple recipe can be changed by adding eggs when mixing the dough for example. 

I tried a mold but got plenty of spring so it leans.

 

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

My first Épi de Blé

This was my first attempt at an "épi de blé," or "sheaf of wheat" shape. I made it with Anis Bouabsa's baguette dough. 

Épi de Blé

Close-up

David

althetrainer's picture
althetrainer

How much to charge for a loaf of sourdough bread?

I have shared my sourdough breads with a tight circle of people i.e. school, work, etc.  Now some of these people are asking me to bake breads and they will buy from me.  I am not going to operate a bakery; just to bake a few extra loaves each weekend to provide for those who have asked.  I will make sourdough French long loaf and sourdough wheat sandwich bread because I make these two every week for my family anyway.  I just don't know how much I should charge them.  What would be reasonble for a loaf of sourdough French bread or sourdough wheat sandwich loaf? 

karladiane's picture
karladiane

Easter Gubana

Hi all:

Well, here is my Easter Gubana (Easter Bread from the region of Friuli)! When I asked about this bread on the forum last month, nobody replied that they had made one, so I thought I'd share mine with you.

It was quite delicious, but definitely an "adult" flavored cake.  LOTS of nuts (hazelnuts, walnuts, pine nuts, almonds) and some booze soaking for the filling.  It was pretty much following the recipe that is in Carol Fields' "The Italian Baker", and was especially delicious with some vanilla gelato.  Next time, I think I need to make a wetter sponge, and I'll macerate the raisins before adding them to the nuts & other filling ingredients (which is a long list:  The aforementioned 4 nuts + raisins + candied orange peel + cinnamon + cocoa + lemon zest + 5 different liquor/liqueurs). 

There was what seemed to be an impossible amount of filling for the loaf - but I crammed it all in!

Hope you all had wonderful holidays!

peace.

 

 

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Polish Cottage Rye from "Local Bread"

I haven't baked the Polish Cottage Rye from Daniel Leaders "Local Breads" for a year! In the past, I have used First Clear Flour or another high extraction flour as a substitute for the bread flour called for in Leader's formula. This time, I followed the formula exactly.

The dough was very wet and sticky, even with very good gluten development. I actually enjoyed working with this dough, which must indicate I've reached a new level of comfort with slack doughs. In spite of the slackness, it had enough integrity to take my slashes without any dragging. I think proofing the loaf in a linen-lined banneton resulted in just enough drying of the surface.

The resulting bread was similar in profile to the Polish Cottage Ryes I had made before, but the crumb was much more open and chewy. I attribute this to the flour I used, in large part, but also to the better gluten development.

This is a "sourdough rye." There is no added yeast. It is made with a rye sour. I made my sour from my usual starter by giving it two feedings with whole rye flour. All the rye in the dough is from the rye sour.

 

Polish Cottage Rye -2-1/2 pound boule

As you can see, this bread has a rather low profile. The slack dough spreads once it is dumped from the banneton onto the peel. It has only moderate oven spring. I should have put a ruler on the cutting board to provide a sense of scale, but this bread is just about 11" across. 

Polish Cottage Rye - Crumb close-up

As with most sourdough rye breads, this one benefits from deferring slicing until at least 12 hours after it has baked. I am so proud of myself! This is the first time I actually had the self-control to leave the bread uncut for 12 hours!

The flavor of this bread is marvelous. It is moderately sour with a complex flavor. The rye flavor is very much "there," but it does not dominate. 

I recommend this bread to any rye-lover who wants to explore beyond "Deli Rye" but isn't quite ready for the 70-100% ryes. Because it has a high percentage of bread flour, the dough acts like a "regular" sourdough, not like the sticky dough of a high-percentage rye. I also recommend it to any sourdough lover. There are so many things to be said about adding some rye flour to a "white" sourdough, the topic deserves it's own entry.  For now, I'll just leave it at, "Try it! You'll like it!"

David

hansjoakim's picture
hansjoakim

There is a light that never goes out

Hi all,

It's been a while since I posted something here, so I thought I should put up some photos I've taken of stuff I've hauled from the oven over the last month or so. I've been occupied with the bread and pastry books by Friberg and Suas, so all of these recipes are taken from those sources.

Breads

I've baked most of the sourdough breads from ABAP, and I've found the sourdough rye and sourdough multigrain to be excellent breads. I've made a variation on the rye twice - first as a boule:

Sourdough rye

... then as a batard:

Sourdough rye

 

Here's the crumb of the batard version:

Sourdough rye

This is a very nice, well balanced base recipe for a filling everyday rye. The versions above are approx. 55% ryes, mostly whole rye. Curiously, this rye is made with a stiff white starter, so the flavour is very mildly sour. In the above loaves, there is about 0.3% fresh yeast, so the loaves are bulk fermented a good 2 hours, and given a final proof of just under 90 minutes. There is a delicious rye flavour to these loaves! As I said, I find the recipe to be a great "base" recipe for adding in other things as well - I added caraway and anise seeds to the batard above, and I'll be making this again with other seeds and some whole grain soakers in the future.

Below is a photo of the sourdough multigrain from ABAP - also a terrific formula. Here enjoyed with herring, a fresh salad and sour cream.

Sourdough multigrain

 

Croissants

My freezer's been out of croissants for months on end, so a couple of weeks ago I decided to get my act together and haul out that butter block from the fridge! I used the simplest croissant recipe from ABAP (i.e. no preferments or sourdough), but gave the dough an overnight retardation in the fridge during bulk fermentation. The dough came out relaxed and easy to work with.

I'm using three single turns during lamination of croissant doughs, and this time I formed ordinary croissants (since I'm making these so rarely, I wanted to practice shaping a bit). After a few minutes in the oven, and the melted butter scent is filling the apartment, it's time to crank out that victory beer I've been saving:

Croissants in the oven

 

I was very happy with how these turned out - as full and rich in taste as any croissants I've made before with a preferment in the dough, but this time with a much lighter interior. I couldn't get a decent photo of the interior cross section, but it was incredibly light and fragile, almost like a spiderweb by the look of it!

Croissants

Layer upon layer upon layer upon... yum...

Croissants

 

Pastry

Easter time is the season for oranges where I come from, so I candied some peel from oranges I had and put them in cream scones together with dark raisins. A real treat!

Scones

I like my scones very cake-like (I hate those hard, chewy bricks I sometime get at the store... never again!), so I just blend everything together in a bowl (by hand or using a rubber spatula), before gently pressing the sticky mess into a springform. Slice, wash and bake! I cream washed these before putting them into the oven, so they came out a bit paler than cream scones with a proper egg wash.

Scones

Still good for breakfast, though.

 

After pulling those croissants off, I wanted to take things two turns further, and opted for a go at the puff pastry dough from Friberg's book. I've only done croissants three times before and never any puff, so this was definitely an eye opening experience. A massive chunk of butter where gently incorporated into a shaggy dough, and given five single turns. After the final turn, I rolled the dough gently into a rectangle 2-3 cm thick. In the photo underneath is about 2/3 of the dough (the other third was in the prepping stages of some puff pastry diamonds - more on those below) wrapped in cling film. (By the way, if anyone has made the puff dough from Friberg's book, and you don't mind, would you send me a message? There are some things in preparing the butterblock that I'd like to clear up!)

Puff pastry dough

 

As I said, this was my first experiment with puff dough, so I had no idea about the powerful punch this stuff packs when it gets into a steaming hot oven. Check out the oven spring:

Puff pastry diamonds

If there only could be a way to put 243 layers of butter into that rye dough... I used 1/3 of the puff dough to make some puff pastry diamonds with chunky apple filling and some with pastry cream (not shown here).

Puff pastry diamonds

 

Finally, for something a bit different - I'm not much of a cake baker, but I'd really love to learn how to do it properly. I've only made one layered cake before (a simple lemon curd cake), so I picked one of the simplest layered cakes in ABAP, an Opera cake. The Opera is typically made from a biscuit viennoise or a joconde sponge base, which is cut and stacked alternately with coffee buttercream and a chocolate ganache. A strong coffee soaker adds to the caffeine rush of this cake. Do not eat it on empty stomach. Or if you are pregnant. Or if you have a heart condition.

I used the recipe for the joconde sponge from Friberg's book (finished sponge, messy bowls and working notes below), and took the rest from ABAP.

Joconde sponge

I can mix a decent buttercream and form an edible chocolate ganache, but for me, the challenge is always in putting the many components together in something that you'd like to serve other people...!

Although my cake is a far cry from this sexy slab of Opera, I was still quite happy with how it turned out:

Opera cake

The layer breakdown:

Opera cake

LindyD's picture
LindyD

Is your sourdough starter old and ugly?

You could always try this.

Courtesy of PJ Hamel and King Arthur Flour.

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